Doug showed the meeting an example of using the copper tape which is common in doll houses. The tape consists of two conductors side-by-side on a self-adhesive backing. THe tape can be stuck to internal walls, soldered to, and painted over to conceal. For more information:

http://tinyfixation.blogspot.com/2012/11/tutorial-tape-wiring-dollhouse-basics.html


Rick told us about some epoxy which he had obtained from Noah's Marine in Etobicoke and was very economical, at $28.30 for 12oz. Look for Ark Composites Epoxy Repair Kit.

In all things connected with shipping, and especially with their evolutions, simplicity is highly desirable.

Collision at sea is generally the result of a sudden act on the part of a master, or pilot, or commanding-officer of the deck. Such hasty decision often proceeds directly from a mere glance at the relative positions of the approaching ships; consequently , the remedy seems to lie in the enabling of commanders and others to gather from such "glance” absolutely correct notions for their guidance at the moment. Experience convinces that no positive “ rule of the road” can properly be laid down for the avoidance of collisions; a certain discretionary power in each commander seems to be necessary for the guidance of each vessel ;-“ positive rules ” for the management of the helm may even be dangerous.
Collisions are not confined to the hours of darkness, since they occur in broad daylight, especially on rivers ;-hence they are not the consequence of a defective system of lights alone. Collisions in general may be attributed to neglect of the following consideration, viz.,- if a commander sees a vessel approaching , either stem-on or obliquely, he can with certainty avoid her if he discovers what his opponent is doing or is about to do with his helm! Legislation, therefore, seems to be needed in order to give to commanders, at the proper moment, this important information. Therefore I propose as follows, viz. 


By Day.-Whenever a commander or pilot gives an order to his helmsman to “starboard ” the helm, let him immediately place himself where he (or some one forward whose duty it may be) can be seen by the other ship ), and at once extend his right arm horizontally -always supposing his face is towards his own ship’s head; and If he orders “port,” let him in like manner extend his left arm. When either of the commanders does this, collision is scarcely possible.
Priority of signal would then be the only point for discussion, in case of damage through obstinacy. Vessels that are manifestly smaller should be expected to attend and conform, when practicable, to signal from the larger ship, and especially where draft of water might render it desirable. Unnecessary obstinacy at such times would be criminal.
Surely, by day, no other “rules " can be necessary,-except the old established ones of “ Starboard tack hold on,” “ Sailing vessel hold on,” “ Steamer give way,” &c.

By Night.-A danger light is absolutely indispensable. At present we have none. Let, therefore, a white light be always a danger light. It should be carried at the bowsprit end of all square-rig vessels, circumstances permitting, and within certain limits of the land. 
It should be compulsory in all sailing vessels to have this light in a lantern of three colours, as it is often used at present, the three bull’s-eyes being lighted from the same wick; care being taken to have a stick (say two feet long) attached to the after part of the lantern, by means of which (as a guide rod) the more correctly to lash the lantern in a fore and aft line with the bowsprit. The centre or white light (the red and green lights indicating “port” and “starboard” as at present) to be so hidden by projecting screens, which might be attached to the lantern, that another ship being more than two points on either bow would not see the danger light, but would see either the red or green light, which would at once indicate her course and direction.


When vessels are approaching and any order is given in either of them as to moving the helm, an additional light coloured or white, according to circumstances) should be exhibited where best seen, as under, viz
To indicate that the helm either is, or is about to be, put “ a starboard,” show a hand green light.
To indicate that the helm either is, or is about to be, put “a part,” show a hand red light.
To indicate no intended change of helm, show a hand white light.
A hand lantern of three colours should always be ready after sunset.
Ships wanting a pilot might in moderate weather attach an all-round white light with a lanyard three feet below the signal lantern at the bowsprit end; in bad weather an occasional blue light at intervals, with an additional light on the forecastle, would be enough to attract a pilot’s attention.
Perhaps, then, no distinguishing light in a pilot vessel would be necessary, because pilots on the lookout would run down to and speak such ships, and in approaching might show an additional light in answer.
To distinguish steamers from sailing vessels, the lights (viz., white at the mast and red and green amidships) at present used in steamers are sufficient, except. that the White or danger light should only be visible two points on either bow, and then it would always be a warning light. The use of the hand light to be the same as for sailing vessels.
Should a steamer be in danger of overrunning a sailing vessel, a white danger light shown over the taffrail, as at present, would be sufficient.
If the above, with probably some additional arrangements, are carried out when ships meet at see, it must conduce to greater safety for even if no look-out he kept on board one of the two ships, the other could take steps for avoiding her!

Our next club meeting will be on Tuesday 13th February at 7:30pm..

It was heartening to see the support shown by our club at our January meeting, helping Cher find homes for Bob’s hobby items and tools. It was hard for Cher to part with Bob’s personal items, most of which I am sure had a connection to a story for Cher, and for a lot of others as well.

I wanted to thank members from Buffalo and Toronto coming out to support our evening as well.

We are entering into that part of our annual schedule where our activities are focused indoors; activities including model building and repairing, and meeting with the public at events such as the upcoming Hamilton Boat Show, and the Hamilton Home Show. Most of the other clubs have events of their own scheduled.

A group of our members also meet weekly every Thursday evening at the Tim Horton’s by the Burlington Court House.

All members are welcome to all events. Just get in touch with an Executive member to learn more details.

If you haven’t before, try and get out to one of the events and stay in touch!

Keep your oar in the water and your thwarts dry, otherwise you will have a slow, damp time getting to where you want to be …
..


Steve

               (- with potential for avoiding model collisions on the pond.)

Connectors are something that we don't normally need to be interested in or concerned about. They generally come with the parts we buy. If we need to connect two devices which have different connectors, it's usually a personal preference which one we change.
Most connectors are either single wire or two wire, the exception being servo connectors which are 3. The advantage of the two-wire types is that they are usually polarised, meaning you cannot connect the positive to the negative and vice versa.
The best connectors are gold-plated, because gold is an excellent conductor of electricity, but for most modellers it won't make a noticeable difference to use a connector which is not gold-plated.
Mating connectors are referred to as male and female, and this always refers to the pins, not the connector casing.

1. Bullet (Panduit)
These are commonly fitted to the popular Mtroniks Viper range of marine ESC's. Best information available suggests they are made by Panduit and are mainly intended for automotive use, since they can be obtained locally from Canadian Tire or Sayal. No amperage ratings have been found and you would have to assume that they are good for the rating of the wire they are meant to be used with. They are crimp-type connectors.
2. Tamiya
These are also fitted to the Mtroniks Viper range. There are similar connectors made by Molex, which may or may not be interchangeable with the Tamiya. They are rated at 15 Amps maximum and were once very popular, but other styles are becoming more common. They are quite large for the 15A maximum current they can handle. Tamiya connectors are easy to plug/unplug and have a sprung locking tab. They require crimping the wire to the pins but you can also get them with short wires already crimped allowing you to just solder the wires to your device or battery.
3. Mini-PV (Servo)
These are the 3 pin plugs which are fitted to servos. The outer white or yellow wire is the signal wire and is not fitted when these plugs are used for power supply. They are rated for 3 amps steady load. Another crimped connector, but usually available with short wires.
4. JST RCY
These are often referred to simply as 'JST' plugs but their correct identification is 'JST-RCY'. They are rated 5 amps at a steady load. Also a crimped connector available with short wires.
5. Deans
These were the first heavy-duty connectors and are rated at 60 amps steady load. There are many clones available, some good, some bad. Some have textured surfaces, which makes them easier to separate. The ones with smooth surfaces can be difficult to disconnect and benefit from having a piece of wet-and-dry paper glued around them. The plastic body on Deans plugs is fairly heat-sensitive so you have to be careful while soldering to avoid softening the plastic which can loosen or misalign the connector tabs. Some clones actually have better heat immunity than the originals. They have flat strip solder tabs on the back which need to insulated with heat shrink.
6. XT
The XT range of battery connectors comes in 3 sizes, XT30, XT60 and XT90, the numbers indicating their amperage rating. With all XT style connectors, wires are soldered to small external hollow pins on the back of the connector that also need to be insulated with heat shrink afterwards. This also makes them easy to desolder and replace/reuse. The connector housing material used is very heat resistant so XT style connectors are more resistant to pin loosening due to overheating while soldering.
7. Bullet connectors (Gold-plated)
If you search on the internet for 'bullet connectors' this is the style you are most likely to see. Some brushless motors and ESC's are supplied with these on the connecting wires; because there are 3 wires bullet connectors are the only option. Some batteries and devices have bare wires so again these are a good option. Ratings range from 20 amps for the 2mm diameter to 200+ amps for the 8mm diameter.
8. Traxxas
Traxxas batteries are now supplied with Traxxas' own design of connector. They are available with several adapters included, enabling them to connect to other styles. They are easy to plug and unplug but can be tricky to solder wires to.

These are not the only connectors you can find, but the most common ones. For more information try these websites:
https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-battery-connector.html

http://www.tjinguytech.com/reviews/rc-connectors

1






2







3







4f






4m








5







6







7






8

Confederation Marine Modellers

Doug described his 1/18 scale model tug of a tractor tug used on the rivers of the Netherlands. It has been  built from a kit sourced from China. The model was very complete even including a mount for a 545 size motor.  Unfortunately there were a number of problems not the least of which was that the instructions were all in Chinese, and included one frame that was too wide. Doug complained about these defects to the supplier and eventually obtained a refund. The model is powered by two 7.2V batteries and does not require any additional ballast.


Peter described progress on the model he is building, the BRAtt, a small training tug developed by Robert Allan Ltd of B.C. The starting point for the model was a couple of Z-drives which Peter purchased from Bob I. recently. Peter has made up a baseboard on which are mounted the Z-drives, the motors and the steering servo, The hull frame has been built up from stringers of both birch and poplar plywood. 


Austin demonstrated the tank which he has acquired which, amongst other features, can fire BB gun pellets. He was not happy with the colour scheme and has repainted it.


Charlie, John B and Cher made available a lot of Bob Farrant's modelling tools and fittings for members to purchase.

Hints and tips - Wiring and epoxy.

Meeting notes - 8th January

January 2018

        

Nautical lore - Suggestions for avoiding collisions at sea.

Word from the President

Hints and tips - Connectors

An extract from the "Nautical Magazine and Naval Chronicle for 1858"