Practical applications.

Example 1 – Superstructure front and rear.
           The superstructures and deckhouses on many vessels are rectangular boxes, making them relatively easy to construct. Some vessels will have rounded fronts or backs to the superstructure, and you will need to apply some of the techniques mentioned earlier. Here are a few examples.
            Rowen used the heat gun method to form the superstructure front on his Seaforth Conqueror. You can see also where he used two separately shaped pieces and then joined them to create the reverse slope.
            The shaping former, which was eventually used to locate the Seaforth Conqueror superstructure, is shown on the deck in both pictures. Picture 1 shows the former fitted to the foredeck and in Picture 2 it is just visible in front of the forward face of the deckhouse, which has been moved back to show it.
             Picture 3 shows the hot sand method being used to shape the front of the superstructure on Roy’s tug Forceful. In this example a full depth wooden former has been made and is being used to hold the styrene while it is being heated.

             Pictures 4 and 5 show a superstructure front made by the vacuum moulding process. The first picture shows the former made from scrap wood using several layers to achieve a reverse slope. This is similar to making a ‘bread-and-butter’ hull. The resulting moulding is also shown, and Picture 5 is the complete bridge structure.

Example 2. Rectangular window apertures.

              The appearance of windows and portholes can be applied onto the surface, by painting, making from pieces of black vinyl or tape, or printing suitable decals.
           If you want to simulate them by cutting openings in the deckhouse walls there are a number of techniques.
           If you have a steady hand and a sharp knife you can cut rectangular windows out of styrene up to 0.030” thick. If the windows have curved corners, use a step drill to make holes at the corner; try drilling both before and after cutting the edges with a knife, to find what works best for you.
          If you are using styrene thicker than 0.030” thick you may need a different technique. Heat the tip of a small, pointed, X-Acto style knife blade (with metal handle) using a butane or lighter fluid torch. Use an old blade, if it is not scrap before you start it will be when you have finished! The tip often turns red, but this does not seem to affect the process much. Dremel also make a soldering iron into which you can fit a knife blade in place of the regular tip.
           Using the hot tip cut well to the inside of the dimensions of the window, all around the aperture. Remove the cut out section. Take a small file and smooth the aperture out to its finished dimensions, it may take several passes around the window to finish this. Once the final dimensions are achieved rub the panel on a flat piece of sandpaper to remove any plastic build up around the window.  A window frame can be added using styrene strip if required.

This information has been compiled by Roy with input from a number of sources, and notably Steve M., Doug, Rowen, and Max [of Hoylake Model Boat club, UK]. 

Building in styrene, continued.

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